Sudeley Castle and the omnipresent history of Britain
We drove out to Sudeley Castle via a series of small roads that wound us through dozens of small villages and rolling farm lands bordered by stone fences and hedgerows. It was incredibly picturesque! At every turn we expected to see Emma and Mr. Knightly walking across the pastures.
At many points along the road were access points to the hundreds of ‘public footpaths’ threading across the Cotswolds. They are not trails as we have in the US but paths that have been used by the locals for hundreds of years and simply formalized with a sign. The right of way rules here allow the public to cut across your property without challenge as long as you keep it cool. These people are avid walkers!
We were within 2 miles of Sudeley Castle and winding our way along a ridge overlooking a valley on a road the width of a bike path. The area didn’t seem right and I was wondering if we were lost. I glanced down into the valley and asked Kaety, “Do you see a castle down there anywhere? We’ve got to be close?!”
She looked and replied, “I do see one…wait I see more than one. I’m not sure if any of those are the castles we are going to”
I had to laugh. What a weird problem.
A sharp right turn between a narrow hedge row gap abruptly lead us to Sudeley Castle.
Sudeley wasn’t technically a castle, but instead a ‘castlized manor’. I had no idea this subset of architecture existed. Sudeley was also the backdrop to a whole lot of historic drama. The last surviving wife of Henry the VIII, Catherine Parr lived and was later discovered to have been buried there. I guess if you are the last surviving wife, you lay low, even in death. The weirdest interpretive sign I’ve ever read described the discovery of the casket and the condition of her body as, “…still white and moist”. Nice detail – yikes!
As we wandered the manor and grounds we were reminded of the British civil war that balanced the power between parliament and the monarchy.
Sudeley Castle featured significantly enough in the war that it was ordered ‘slighted’ as a consequence of being on the losing side of the conflict. Slighted is a polite euphemism for ‘totally destroyed’.
The history was fascinating and more than slightly depressing but the gardens, where all the held women spent their time, were beautiful.
Tips for visiting Sudeley Castle:
There is the destination, but then there is the journey. The drive out to Sudeley Castle is a marvel. We enjoyed our journey almost as much as the visit to the castle itself.
The castle grounds are a less ‘Castle’ and more ‘fortified manor’. If you want to pretend to repel the invaders from the ramparts, you’ll need a different castle.
The grounds and gardens are beautiful, and old! Just the walk around the property in search of the chapel and other notable landmarks was very enjoyable, peaceful and gorgeous.
As you tour through the castle you are allowed in the manor rooms, which are all staged with household furnishings from the time period. In halls and alcoves throughout the manor you will find historic displays describing the storied past of the castle and its occupants. It’s a hot bed of politics and history.
For those who care, the place is dripping with instagram envy creating opportunities.
The on-site resturaunt will keep you alive, but you won’t remember a thing about it. Bring your own picnic and enjoy eating your own food on the grounds if you can get your early morning act together to pull it off.
The gift store is a nice blend of ‘castle’ and ‘farm store’. It was probably one of the best gift shops we experienced on our trip to England.
